Thursday, March 8, 2012

Spotted: on Atlantan Menus

I'm not sure what it was about eating in Germany - the magic of calling familiar foods by a new, foreign name; participating in the craze of the seasonal; seeing fresh produce that retained its aura because it wasn't radiated; having fewer prepared meals to choose from at the supermarket (and going to specialty food stores more) - but it was glorious. I learned that the best foods in the world let the product's original flavor speak for itself: no need trying to cook for 2 hours to achieve a good meal! Just get a good cheese and put it with a good fruit and have a slice of good bread! I would make a simple meal at home and want to take a picture because I thought it looked simply beautiful. For instance, I found these images I took last year:
Spring: asparagus season
Summer: berries, cream, crust
Fall: Zucchini, fresh mozzarella, olives, balsamico crema 
I am still looking for markets in Atlanta that sell something close to that peach I had in Nice or the apricots I picked up at home in Germany. A restaurant that has fresh to-die-for strawberries with whipped cream on the menu. But while I'm looking, I can't help but notice the exact opposite culinary standard being held here in Atlanta. There is probably a molecular gastronomy institute in the city somewhere. 

Sure, there is an emphasis on local produce. However, there is much more excitement about the new and bizarre. Why so many things that I've never even heard of? Here is a sampling of some menu items from restaurants in my area:

- Coffee Braised Lamb Shank - with local carrot puree, dried apricot relish, natural jus
- Roasted Trout - with Castelluccio lentils, roasted baby carrots, cippolini agrodolce
- Burnt Orange Ricotta Cheesecake - pecan-streusel crust, balsamic, candied orange zest, basil
- Vodka-battered onion rings - with beer mustard
-Toasts - with ceci pea puree, anchovy vinaigrette, local spring chives, parmesan, chillies 
(I looked up ceci - turns out it's Italian for chickpeas.)

Bone marrow. On every menu.
EVOO (that's extra virgin olive oil, if you didn't know)
Green Tomato Ketchup, Cajunnaise, pomegranate ketchup, cauliflower bechamel. 

Now I know why people keep taking out their smartphones in restaurants!

I love food, and I love trying new flavors. I also see the merit in ordering food at a restaurant that would be way, way out of my league to make by myself at home. I'm excited to go to these restaurants when the opportunity comes up. 

My main point is that these menu items clearly show how modern, progressive cuisine is about the finished product, the magical blend of surprising ingredients. It seems American to me now - super sized on flavor - new money instead of old money - a little bit like it's trying too hard. 

It makes me a little homesick for the traditional, simple elegance of Europe.

But if I'm showing you around Atlanta, you can bet that I will take you to a restaurant with a unique menu. It's one thing this city has to offer.

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